This post was written by Sarah Rees
“WOW,” is the only word that escapes our lips as the food arrives from the kitchen of Madisons, the new face on Jalan Bangkung. Despite only opening two months ago, this cosy eatery already boasts a loyal fan base, and it’s easy to see why they come back.
Presentation is one thing – these artful plates of food are a treat to behold – but taste must follow, and in the latter department Australian Chef Kelly Delaney delivers with the deft touch of a true expert. Her Western food packs richness, sweetness, tender textures, and creative combinations of flavours onto the beautiful plates, and it makes for a dining experience that demands attention.
The passionate chef is back in Malaysia after a lengthy absence – she was at school in KL – and she swiped her four-year-old daughter’s name for her new restaurant, as well as importing her killer recipes from her successful Adelaide-based restaurant for the menu. The selection runs from funky appetizers and cold cut platters to marvellous main courses, and while the handmade pastas could be construed as easy crowd-pleasers, the taste, when it comes, is remarkable. The Oxtail Pappadelle we devoured looked delectable and delivered an experience to match.
Main meals are meat-heavy, ranging from fish to duck and lamb, although the Beef Tenderloin – all 250g of it – is a serious winner. Cooked, like many of the meat choices, sous-vide, the tender, juicy beef is smattered with mushrooms, pickles, candied spek (addictive, crunchy, oven-roasted, honey-dipped bacon), and a shallot potato purée; simple ingredients, but an extraordinary taste.
Puddings are playful and sinful in equal measure – the Deconstructed Tiramisu is an innovative way to enjoy the various components of this indulgent dessert, while the rich chocolate options are balanced by the custardy Crema Fritta and a cheese platter. Be on the safe side and opt for them all on a sharing platter.
Food this good demands a ÿne glass of wine, and restaurant manager Magic lives up to his name by conjuring the ideal tipple to complement the food flavours, delivering it with a brilliant smile and bouncing, bountiful enthusiasm.
But before this talk of wines and fine food makes dollar signs appear, Kelly reassures that she wants to make her high-quality food accessible, and this is surely the rationale behind the remarkable value lunch set that offers three courses plus a drink for RM35.
The full drinks list extends beyond the wine spread to spirits, bottled beers, and cocktails; then into mocktails, juices, and excellent coffees and teas. Combine this choice with the relaxed yet stylish décor, and Madisons is an easy place to linger. It may be part of the restaurant band of Opus Bistro et al. but Madisons remains proudly different; Kelly is a force to be reckoned with in the kitchen.
Fact File :
65 Jalan Bangkung
59100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03.2092 1222
Entrees: RM20-30++; Pasta: RM36-42++;
Mains: RM60-127++; Dessert:RM25-27++
Set lunch (Tues-Sat): RM35++ for 3 courses plus drink
Tuesday-Saturday: 12pm-late (kitchen closed 3pm-6pm)
Sunday: 11am-late (brunch menu available until 4pm)
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Source: The Expat September 2012
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