Travel

A journey on the Eastern and Oriental Express Train

Print Friendly, PDF & Email

072

Petra O’Neill took the slow route through the heartland of Southeast Asia via the Eastern and Oriental Express train, and found that some journeys are better taken as experiences savoured.

I was considering how best to end my journey when I had a flashback. It was while standing on the station platform in Singapore that I noticed a procession of immaculately dressed people wearing panama hats and crisp linens. They walked determinedly, with a superior air, chests puffed, chins high, to catch the legendary Eastern & Oriental Express train bound for Bangkok.

044

Fast forward, and here I was at the train’s check-in counter at the Raffles Hotel in Singapore, altogether failing to achieve that regal look, wearing crumpled pants that had long since succumbed to the tropical humidity, and my hat gone all floppy. I was greeted by a serene young woman who handed me a Singapore Sling and seemed not to notice my scruffy appearance before depositing me onto the train’s shuttle bus to Woodlands Station.

All Aboard!

051

Whisked along the platform past the gleaming green and cream carriages, I was led by my steward to my luxurious Pullman compartment with exquisite silks, damask, and fine wood detailing decorating the interior. It was further enhanced by extra touches, such as a slender orchid in the silver vase, scent of fresh jasmine flowers in the en suite bathroom, and Bulgari toiletries.

Within minutes, a delicious, still-warm apple crumble tart and carrot cake slice arrived with a silver pot of the finest tea. The whistle blew, the train departed. I put on a pair of embossed slippers and sat back to enjoy the view of Singapore from the large picture windows as the train proceeded via the causeway of the Straits of Johor to Malaysia. I had entered paradise on wheels and was about to embark on a journey spanning 2,160 kilometres.

penang thailand singapore 265

Off came the slippers! There was too much to explore. I walked along the carriage corridors to the Observation Car with the jungle slipping by so close you can practically touch it. Bells clanged, and stations faded, and as we passed rainforests, palm oil, rubber plantations, and railway crossings, rows of waiting motorcyclists waved hello. The unfolding panorama was captivating and as the sun began to set, I realised I only had ten minutes to get dressed before the first sitting for dinner.

Promoted

Colonial Eats

056

Meals are served in true colonial style, in dining cars lavishly decorated with rosewood and elm panelling, the starched white table cloths complete with crystal and silverware. I was seated with two Germans, Wolfgang and Gunter, who were splendidly dressed in silk bow ties and black velvet evening suits, while they discussed each course as it was served. Everything was delicious, from the curry puffs to the creamy mushroom soup to the Rendang curry. And would I enjoy a lychee-flavoured mousse accompanied by clotted cream for dessert, followed by petit fours and ginger tea? Absolutely!

Welcome Distractions

penang thailand singapore 255

Inside the train there were plenty of things to see or do to keep me occupied on the journey. The library was filled with books on travel, history, art, and architecture, as well as current magazines. After dinner, many guests choose to retire to the Bar Car, the social hub of the train, keeping themselves entertained by the resident pianist. On this journey there were passengers from a variety of nationalities – the UK, Germany, France, Japan, the United States, Australia, and expats from Malaysia and Singapore. Nicolas Pillet, the train’s General Manager, said that was generally the case.

We paused at Kuala Lumpur’s magnificent Moorish style Railway Station with the Petronas Twin Towers brightly lit up. It was a perfect time sit back and enjoy one of the train’s signature cocktails, a heady concoction of bourbon, amaretto, Southern Comfort, lime juice, and grenadine syrup. Lulled to sleep by the gentle sway of the carriages, or perhaps the cocktail, I woke up to a breakfast of freshly brewed coffee, pastries, and tropical fruit. As we followed the railway line through the state of Perak, the landscape was broken by dramatic limestone outcrops penetrated by caves with Chinese and Indian temples built into their cliffs.

Seeing the Sights

penang thailand singapore 285

Kuala Kangsar is a quiet provincial town made wealthy by tin mining, situated on a bend on the Perak River. Home to the Sultan of Perak, it has some of the grandest palaces and mosques in Malaysia. By coach we visited the grand Masjid Ubudiah, a swirling mosque of marble turrets and golden cupolas, completed in 1917 by Arthur Benison Hubback, a British government architect better known for his buildings that feature prominently in Kuala Lumpur.

The Royal Museum is housed in a magnificent example of Malay architecture built from wood, all constructed without a single nail. We also visited the Sultan Azlan Shah Gallery, with many royal treasures on display. Steeped in Malay tradition, a stop at Kuala Kangsar provided an insight into one of the most easy-going and pleasant towns in Malaysia.

penang thailand singapore 355

After crossing into Thailand at Padang Besar, the relaxing afternoon and evening passed by as we travelled along the narrow isthmus, separating the Andaman Sea from the Gulf of Thailand, watching the picturesque scenery as jungle and lush palm groves gave way to Buddhist temples, golden shrines, banana trees, rice paddy fields, and cheeky monkeys scampering along electricity wires. A tropical fruit tasting and traditional Thai dancing enhanced the leisurely day. With the rail line hugging the coastline we passed resort towns including Hua Hin, favoured by the Thai royal family with its charming brightly painted station, and Phetchaburi, renowned for its many fine temples.

Promoted

Next morning, I made my way to the Observation Car to watch the sun rise over the Thai countryside. Crossing a wooden trestle viaduct, we arrived at Kanchanaburi and the River Kwai for a river cruise on a bamboo raft past Thai teakwood houses and lush tropical scenery, while Andrew, an Australian historian, provided an overview of the railway built by the Japanese in 1942-43 using forced labour and Allied prisoners of war. We visited the museum and carefully-maintained war cemetery that pays tribute to the many who perished here, including 4,904 British under horrendous conditions. Each passenger was given a jasmine garland to pay our respects.

052

When the announcement was made that the train was running one hour behind schedule, I rejoiced, for it meant more time could be spent watching life go by from the Observation Car. But alas! Too soon, the peaceful lush countryside of corn, sugarcane fields and villages gave way to the suburbs of Bangkok, and at journey’s end we arrived at Bangkok’s grand Hualamphong Railway Station. As I went to buy my 25 Baht suburban train ticket from the ticket dispenser, I was all too suddenly propelled from the romance of the days of great rail journeys headlong back into the 21st century.

Fact file

The Eastern & Oriental Express evokes the great age of luxury train travel and provides one of the best journey experiences you could ever have, the exotic sister to the Orient-Express with several itineraries to suit and frequent departures throughout the year. The southbound journey includes a leisurely trishaw tour around Georgetown on the island of Penang. Guests can commence the journey at Singapore, Kuala Lumpur or Bangkok. In Kuala Lumpur history buffs will enjoy checking in for the train at the Hotel Majestic. The cabins come in three categories, which are Pullman, the more spacious Stateroom, and the Presidential, all with en-suite bathrooms. www.belmond.com

Where to stay

You can combine your journey on the Eastern & Oriental Express with pre and post accommodation. The opulent Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok, one of Asia’s most legendary hotels, is sited on the Chao Phraya River, with a Spa and Thai restaurant Sala Rim Naam. The hotel is so beautiful you will feel disinclined to leave its iron gates www.mandarinoriental.com

The Mercure Bangkok Siam features stylish interiors and choice of rooms surrounded by world class shopping centres and close to the sky-train for easy access to major sights. Opt for an Executive room for great views of the city below www.accorhotels.com

In Singapore, the Ibis Bencoolen has a great central location close to three MRT stations, Little India and the Colonial District and offers contemporary interiors. www.accorhotels.com

The hotel that has everyone talking is the extravagant and stylish Sofitel So, Singapore’s first luxurious designer boutique hotel, with sensational interiors that appear to draw inspiration from the flamboyance of 19th century French Rococo decadence with signature touches by Karl Lagerfield www.accorhotels.com

See also: A Brief Look at Penang’s Exotic Charms and Colonial History

This article was originally published in The Expat Magazine (June 2015) which is available online or in print via a free subscription.





"ExpatGo welcomes and encourages comments, input, and divergent opinions. However, we kindly request that you use suitable language in your comments, and refrain from any sort of personal attack, hate speech, or disparaging rhetoric. Comments not in line with this are subject to removal from the site. "


Comments

Angie Rodep

Godwilling I will do it

Melinder Kaur

Kamaldip Sandhu look at the orient express also. #bucketlist

Click to comment

Most Popular

To Top